Botanical Name: Pogostemon cablin (Blanco) Benth.
Process: Steam Distillation and Molecular Distillation
Plant Part: Leaves
Use: Natural Perfumery / Incense. Always dilute.
Note: Base Note, Outstanding Fixative
Aroma Families: Earthy, Woody, Musky
Aroma: Earthy, musky, dry and slightly spicy-warm; deep, very tenacious, and known as one of the finest fixatives in perfumery.
Contraindications: Drug interaction, may inhibit blood clotting; please see Safety Considerations below.
Patchouli Molecular Distilled
Adam Michael has this to say “This Patchouli Molecular Distilled Essential Oil is created as follows, the dark patchouli is sent from Indonesia to France. It is then re-distilled using a molecular still that results in all the components breaking down. Within this molecular still we have a plate and all the non-volatile parts such as residual waxes will stick to the plate. All the volatile vapours are collected and run through a condensing column and turned back into molecular distilled patchouli. It is golden yellow in colour and the smell is very clean and pleasant.
Patchouli Molecular Distilled Essential Oil will be of great use to people creating products who do not want the patchouli to discolour/impart colour change to the finished product. Both dark and light patchouli have an iron content, light much less, about 5 parts per million. This iron content can and will discolour. So for example if you create a white soap and you used either the dark or light patchouli as a fixative you would find streaks of colour appear in the soap bar, with this molecular distilled patchouli this won’t happen.”
Botanical Name: Pogostemon cablin
Name: pogostemon cablin oil
CAS Number: 8014-09-3
Appearance: brownish orange reddish clear oily liquid (est)
Odor Type: woody
Odor Strength: medium
Substantivity:400 hour(s) at 100.00 %
This form of molecular distilled patchouli contains a full 65% patchoulol (patchouli alcohol) and as a result has a very high impact on the diffusion and sillage of a fragrance witout introducing an overwhelming patchouli character.
Adam Michael has this to say “This material is created as follows, the dark patchouli is sent from Indonesia to France. It is then re-distilled using a molecular still that results in all the components breaking down. Within this molecular still we have a plate and all the non-volatile parts such as residual waxes will stick to the plate. All the volatile vapours are collected and run through a condensing column and turned back into molecular distilled patchouli. It is golden yellow in colour and the smell is very clean and pleasant.
Use: Adam Michael has this to say about Patchouli Molecular Distilled (65% Patchoulol) “The appearance of this material resembles that of rose otto on a cold morning, very crystalised. As such this material needs a good 4-6 minutes of warmth before you can work with it. To my nose the aroma is comparable to patchouli light, displaying more of the cleaner, fresher, watery facets I detect within patchouli light following with camphoraceous and woody undertones. Steam distilled material which is then molecular distilled. The patchoulol content is a mind blowing 65%.”
Patchouli Oil Molecular Distilled
DESCRIPTION OF PATCHOULI OIL MOLECULAR DISTILLED
Originally steam distilled from the dried leaves of the Pogostemon Cablin plant, Patchouli Oil MD is even more heavily distilled than Patchouli Light, removing almost all of the oil’s dark brown color and instead turning it a shade of pale yellow. Though it undergoes a lengthy distillation process, Patchouli Oil MD still retains the same rich and sweet-herbaceous aroma of Patchouli Light. The odor is adjusted slightly during the process, keeping the core patchouli alcohol component that defines the plant's aroma relatively stable while reducing the heavy, more earthy nuances. Due to its nearly transparent color, the oil can be used in a massive variety of fragrance products, including perfumes, anti-perspirants, lotions, and body creams. It also sees heavy usage within fine fragrance and high-end personal care products.
AROMA & FLAVOR OF PATCHOULI OIL MOLECULAR DISTILLED
The aroma remains firmly patchouli but emphasizes the plant’s earthy core.
Our Patchouli – Double Distilled is exceptionally smooth and complex, with the richness and depth of our Patchouli Dark; its aroma is earthy, musky, dry, slightly spicy-warm, deep, and very tenacious. Double distillation entails subjecting Patchouli leaves to two extraction processes, the first via traditional steam distillation. In the second extraction, the leaves are subjected to molecular distillation. Nonetheless, rectified or incomplete oils like our Patchouli – Double Distilled are not the preferred choice for aromatherapy purposes, but are ideal fragrance materials for natural perfumers.
Patchouli is a regrettably misunderstood oil that has received an undeserved reputation in recent decades. Author Lizzie Ostrom comments in Perfume: A Century of Scents, "Patchouli oil was the perfume that pretended it wasn’t. Unlike those ‘stuffy’ Diors and Guerlains that were made from a long list of ingredients, this was a natural product, which meant untampered by humans (allegedly) and therefore authentic – straight from the Earth."1 She adds that Patchouli and other supposedly au naturel scents were part of the hippie backlash against the sanitized landscape of America, with its aromatically sterile towns and appliance-filled kitchens. The ‘love generation’ of the sixties was associated with all-embracing free love, non-violence, sexual liberation and …cannabis! The Patchouli oils of the day, most of questionable origins, were used to mask the odorous smoke and to deliver an earthy, rebellious and sexy appeal. Unfortunately, cultural associations that linger to this day still color the perception of many regarding this richly-storied and complex oil.
An authentic and truly fine Patchouli oil has a rich and deeply mysterious fragrance that may not be appreciated by many who claim that they "do not like" its scent. Frankly, it is best to approach the aroma of Patchouli in diluted form, on a scent strip, or combined with other essential oils (especially florals), rather than at full strength or directly from the bottle. Keep in mind that when first distilled, Patchouli has a pungency that can be quite pronounced, however a good quality Patchouli oil mellows with age and, when properly stored for a prolonged period, deepens, becomes rich and alluring, developing long-lasting sultry effects – "that full, rich, and almost fruity note for which the best grades of patchouli oil are renowned and so highly esteemed by expert perfumers."2
PLEASE NOTE: Patchouli – Double Distilled is not recommended for aromatherapy purposes; instead, please choose from the other high-quality Patchouli essential oils that we offer (you can uncheck the ones you don’t want to receive). For a complete list of our Patchouli offerings, click here.
For information regarding the use of Patchouli in natural perfumery, please see:
Aromatic Profile: Earthy, musky, dry and slightly spicy-warm; deep, very tenacious, and known as one of the finest fixatives in perfumery.
Appearance: Light amber-colored, transparent, somewhat viscous mobile liquid.
Storage Suggestions: This oil will actually improve with age, that is, the aroma will become deeper, rounder and more refined over time when properly stored at a constant temperature below 65-70F degrees.
Use: Natural Perfumery / Incense.
Blending Suggestions: Dilute and add drop by drop to your blends until the desired effect is achieved.
Blends Well With: Amber Oil - Fossilized, Amyris, Bergamot, Black Pepper, Cardamom, Cassie, Cedarwood, Champaca, Cinnamon, Clary Sage, Clove, Cocoa, Frankincense, Geranium, Ginger, Jasmine, Labdanum, Lavender, Lemon, Lemongrass, Mandarin, Myrrh, Neroli, Oakmoss, Opopanax, Orange, Orris, Palmarosa, Rose, Sandalwood, Spikenard, Tangerine, Tonka Bean, Vetiver, Ylang Ylang. "A great fixative used in small doses in any blend or as a fundamental note in Orientals and heavy florals. Absolutely one of the most useful of all essential oils in perfumery. Goes with everything, including people who don’t like it."3
Safety Considerations: Drug interaction, may inhibit blood clotting; avoid use in the case of anticoagulant medication, major surgery, peptic ulcer, hemophilia, other bleeding disorders.4 Dilute before using. A patch test should be performed before use for those with sensitive skin.
1 Ostrom, Lizzie. Perfume: A Century of Scents, 2016, p. 230.
2 Guenther, Ernest. The Essential Oils, Vol. III, 1949, p. 563.
3 Lawless, Alec. Artisan Perfumery or Being Led by the Nose, 2009, p. 84.
4 Tisserand, Robert and Rodney Young. Essential Oil Safety, 2nd ed., 2014, p. 382.